Jewelry Lore, A-C

I'm reposting a series of articles I wrote years ago, inspired by George Kunz's 1913 book "The Curious Lore of Precious Stones."

Preamble

Jewels are items, usually minerals, that humans cut, polish, and use to adorn themselves. Gemstones come in a broad spectrum of colors, may be opaque, translucent or transparent, and interact with light in a number of ways. Some jewels are so hard that almost nothing can scratch them, while others are able to withstand powerful blows. Still more stones are delicate, requiring a gentle touch.

What all gemstones have in common are their beauty and ability to capture the imagination. Their looks, strength and endurance become symbols for what we aspire to, and for understanding the world around us. The importance of jewels is further underlined with lore both ancient and new. With tales and symbols, gemstones become ever more beautiful, metaphorically as well as aesthetically.

Agate

Agate is a mineral made from quartz and moganite. The jewel earned its name in the third or fourth century BCE, when the philosopher Theophrastus discovered specimens along the river Achates in Sicily. Agate is often found among metamorphic rocks or ancient lava, and is noted for its striped and spotted crystals. Its layers of color and ability to take polish has made the stone popular for thousands of years.

Wearing agate was thought to treat insomnia and induce good dreams. It was also believed to make its wearer calmer, thoughtful and cautious, enabling them to better earn wealth. Agate protected its wearer from earthbound obstacles and promoted courage as well as strength.  Possessing an agate would bring happiness into a household.

Agate has the power to repel evil influences while bringing divine favor. It also was a symbol for a guiding spirit watching over the wearer. The jewel bestows its wearer with the power to prevent storms and lightning from occurring. Other earthly protections include the stone's ability to ease thirst and fevers.

The jewel is associated with the zodiac sign Gemini, which falls between May 21 and June 21. Those born under the sign who wear agate rings will gain prosperity and maintain good health, especially in old age. Agate is further linked with the Hercules constellation. Those who possess an agate carved with the Hercules stars will win any conflicts which arise on a field.

A text was published in 1709 Vienna describing an unusual invention. An unnamed priest had built an airship, complete with an iron canopy studded with agate. The idea was that the stones would soak in warmth from the sun, becoming magnetic. The canopy would supplement two metal enclosed magnetic spheres in the cabin. Together the canopy and spheres would raise the ship. It's not mentioned whether or not this invention was successful.

Stories abound of agate and its power. It was linked to the stars and the divine, while having the ability to repel evil. The jewel is also able to give it wearers a wide range of abilities and benefits, from good dreams to stopping lightning. Agate even had a role in early aviation, as part of an attempt to create a magnetic powered airship.

Alexandrite

A type of chrysoberyl, alexandrite is famed for its ability to change color under different lighting. Depending on the crystal, it may also feature inclusions that create a cat's eye effect, not matter its current hue. Alexandrite was discovered in 1830, much later than other jewels such as diamonds and emeralds. As it was found in the Ural Mountains of Russia, it was named in honor of Alexander II, then-heir to the throne.

The stone awakened a lot of national pride in its country of discovery. Not only had this variety of chrysoberyl not been found anywhere else, but it also exhibited the national colors of imperial Russia, red and green. For a number of decades after its discovery, alexandrite was considered a good luck charm for Russians. It also believed to strengthen imagination and creativity, as well as improving intuition.

In his book “The Curious Lore of Precious Stones, ” mineralogist George Kunz connected stones known for their optical phenomena for each day of the week. Friday is connected with alexandrite. He doesn't explain the reason for this attribution, writing instead that at the time of his book, people were turning to older beliefs, possibly dabbling in magic and mysticism.

Kunz also wrote how green jewels are best linked with spring, the verdant hues coinciding with newly growing plants. Green also serves as a background that allows flowers to stand out against their surroundings. Since red is associated with heat, red jewels are linked with summer. As such, chrysoberyl as a whole is connected to spring, and alexandrite with summer.

Though alexandrite doesn't have the long history of other gemstones, it's gathered some legends. Alexandrite became a symbol for Russian nationalism and good luck. The stone's colors associate it with the warm seasons. Alexandrite's optical phenomena has even linked the jewel to mysticism.

Amber

Amber is an organic jewel millions of years in the making. The gemstone begins as sap dripping down its tree, trapping whatever it encounters. In time the liquid hardens, becoming a translucent time capsule. Amber may be found within the earth, or washed upon beaches, particularly those along the Baltic Sea. The stone often contains specimens of plants, animal and air bubbles from long ago.

The ancient name for amber is “electrum,” related to the ancient Greek word for “beaming sun.” Legends tell of amber's origin as of the sun god Helios after the death of his son. Other Greek myths says when the sun's rays with the earth and are taken in the ocean's waves, they eventually return to shore on the form of amber.

Elsewhere in Europe is the Lithuanian story of Jurate, a goddess who lived in an amber castle beneath the Baltic sea. When she fell in love with a fisherman, the angry thunder god threw lightning at her home, shattering it into countless pieces. After a storm, pieces of Jurate's former home wash upon the shoreline. Other variations say that Baltic amber are tears Jurate shed after her fisherman died.

In recent times, the author Michael Crichton added a new chapter to the mythology of amber. In his novel Jurassic Park, dinosaurs come to life in the modern day with the help of amber. A mosquito fossilized within the jewel contains enough DNA to allow scientists to recreate dinosaurs of many species and eras. Not only is amber a time capsule, it has the keys to rebuild lost worlds.

Even after thousands of years, amber continues to fascinate. It carries a wealth of mysteries, such as the nature and origins of the materials trapped within. There's also the unknown journey they take traveling through the sea before arriving on beaches. The iconic golden brown color also captures the imagination. Altogether, amber provides a wealth of questions that prompt the birth of stories.

Amethyst

Amethysts are a type of quartz renowned for their purple hues. Its violet shades can range from delicate tints to deeply saturated tones reminiscent of wine. Though it was once a stone for reserved for royalty, the discovery of rich deposits in South America now makes the stone affordable for all. Throughout the centuries, people have attached special meanings to this beautiful jewel.

A key part of amethyst lore is the stone's association with clear thinking. George Kunz has a lot to say about the jewel in his text “The Curious Lore of Precious Stones.” The gem quickens the mind, making it a good item to keep in hand in battle and during business dealings. Amethyst also has the power to calm the overly excited. Kunz also wrote that multiple religions associate amethysts with love, and that Saint Valentine wore an amethyst ring carved with images of Cupid.

One of the more enduring symbols amethyst stands for is in its name. Deriving from the Greek words “to not be drunk,” amethysts were believed to prevent intoxication. Despite the stone's reputation for sobriety, it became closely associated with Dionysus, the Greek god of wine. Some stories say that people who drink from amethyst goblets will not become drunk, making these ideal cups to use during negotiations.

In the 1500s, poet Remy Belleau wrote a tribute to amethyst and Dionysus titled “L'Amethyste, ou les Amours de Bacchus et d'Amethyste.” In the poem, the wine god falls in love with a woman named Amethyst. Wanting nothing to do with Dionysus, Amethyst flees, begging for help from the other deities. The goddess Artemis answers the woman's prayers, turning Amethyst into stone. A humbled Dionysus pours wine over the crystals, dyeing the stones a deep purple.

Though it's a crystal, amethyst's purple hues give it a strong connection to wine. Since the stone cannot be ingested, it became regarded as a balancing force against wine's intoxicating properties. From there, amethyst was linked to many virtues connected with keeping a clear head. Not only will its wearers remain sober, surely they can retain the presence of mind to stay safe and speak well.

Aquamarine

Aquamarine is a type of beryl known for its blue and blue-green hues. The stone is often transparent, with its color is reminiscent of the ocean, earning the jewel its aquatic name. Aquamarine is easily found, with rough as large as 110 kilograms available. The color and possible sizes provide allows for artists to experiment with designs and stories.

Among its watery associations, ancient Greeks and Romans used the jewel as a protective charm for seafaring journeys. They believed that carving the image of Poseidon on his chariot upon the stone gave the jewel special powers. Wearing the sea-god enhanced gemstone would make its owner fearless, providing the courage needed to flourish at sea while staying safe from harm.

Aquamarine's connection with bravery persisted well after the Roman Empire. Arnoldus Saxo wrote in 1220 about the powers of beryl, and how the jewel family made its wearers unbeatable. Not only were its owners successful in battle, they did well with legal issues, beryl offering aid in regards to litigation. The gem family also made people wittier, industrious and friendly.

Beryl, including aquamarine, was believed to improve interpersonal relationships. Dreaming of aquamarines was believed to indicate new friends to come, and beryls of upcoming happiness. If a frog was carved onto the jewel, it gained the ability to calm disputes among enemies and to renew friendships. Beryl also rekindled love among married couples. A woman wearing an aquamarine was believed to gain a happy marriage.

Beryl has also been used for mystical purposes. In the United States around 1913, a number of people experimented with crystal balls, trying to gaze into the unknown. A variety of materials and shapes were tested to optimize the clairvoyants' magic. Blue beryl cubes were the best at helping users see angels and other spirits.

Aquamarines were believed to enhance courage and protect against harm. When engraved with Poseidon, the jewel's powers gain a nautical edge. As a member of the beryl family, aquamarines are linked with abilities connected to love, friendship, and being invincible. Aquamarines even have a small connection with angel sand other supernatural beings.

Bloodstone

A type of agate, bloodstone is named in part for the spots of red among its otherwise green body. This multicolored stone is made up of green chalcedony and either jasper or iron oxide. The stone is also called heliotrope after the Greek god Helios, and known as plasma when it has yellow flecks instead of red. The name heliotrope refers to how the ancient Greeks thought the polished stone shone like the sun.

As with other red stones, bloodstone was believed to help with inflammation and calming anger. Bloodstones were used to stop bleeding. The jewel was said to stop even the most severe of hemorrhages. Ways to use bloodstone to treat bleeding include the Renaissance Italian technique of placing it between the shoulder blades. Other regions suggested carving the jewel into a heart, dipping the jewel into cold water and placing it into the ailing person's right hand for optimal effect.

Bloodstones were believed to turn any water it sat in red. Sunlight that reflected off of the red water produced crimson light. Through the modified light, bloodstones could cause rain and thunderstorms. A side effect of this trait was the owner's ability to predict the weather and use rain to tell the future.

A document known as the Leyden papyrus says that bloodstones have the power to bring respect and admiration to its wearer, as well as protect them from tricks. The gemstone also guards against anger from kings and other great leaders. Whatever the wearer says will be taken as truth. When an unspecified name is carved upon the jewel, pronouncing it will allow its owner to open all doors and destroy stone walls.

In addition to the stone's connections to the Greek god Helios, bloodstone is connected through Aries via the zodiac sign of the same name. Those born under the Aries stars grow wiser with as they wear the jewel. Those born in March may also use the stone for wisdom, as well as for courage.

Red spots on bloodstones were also believed to come from Christian martyrs, making the jewel ideal for carving holy imagery. Its religious connections made it suitable to be carried about plain as well as engraving an optional. Examples of the latter are available in a number of museums, including the Walters Art Museum, the Louvre and the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

The flecks of jasper embedded throughout the green chalcedony inspires many kinds of blood related lore. Bloodstone has the power to treat a number of blood related ailments. It is also linked to the blood of revered people and deities, giving the stone holy connotations. The red spots also connect this jewel to the sun and by extension the weather. No matter what it is believed to do, bloodstones are considered powerful.

Coral

Born from the ocean, precious coral is made of the remains of Corallium rubrum, a genus known for its saturated reds and pinks. Like pearls, coral is made mostly of calcium carbonate, though most coral is tinted with carotenoids. While white and black varieties are also used in jewelry, warm hues are so associated with the jewel that “coral” also refers to a shade of pink.

The Greek word for coral, “gorgeia,” in reference to the Gorgons. According to legend, coral was accidentally created by Perseus. After defeating Medusa, Perseus placed the Gorgon's head in the water for safe keeping while he washed his hands. Upon retrieving her head, he discovered that her blood turned the seaweed underneath into coral.

A 1515 book by Albertus Magnus says that those who wear red or white coral gain the ability to stop tempests, and can cross rivers in safety. Along with the connection with water, coral was able to bestow wisdom. The jewel also had a number of medical benefits, such as stopping blood from a wound and treating mental illness.

Coral was believed to protect against spells. To preserve its potency, the jewel needed to be minimally processed, rather than elaborately carved. Then the coral is to be worn so it's prominent upon the person. If the gemstone breaks, its power vanishes. Romans believed that coral was excellent for protecting children, and would give infants necklaces of the jewel to wear.

Other stories say that wearing red coral directly against the skin fades the color. The red may also lighten if the wearer became ill, was in danger of severe sickness, or consumed poison. Renaissance writers attributed this quirk to the idea that coral was more fragile than the human body. Dreaming of coral means that one will soon recover from illness.

Coral, particularly the red kind, has long been associated with protective qualities. It was believed to hold back the influences of evil spells and magic, and keep its wearer safe for water related troubles. More of its protection was regarded as medical, warning against and keeping away disease, while offering the hope of restored health. Some stories mention coral changing color, adding a magical element to the jewel.

Various coral