Sewing and Sensory Issues

Here is another repost of an article I published back in 2017.

Introduction

People come in different sizes, abilities and other traits. This extends to how we experience the world. What is comfortable to one person, like a radio playing, may be inadequate to another person and dreadful to a third. Finding a balance where one is getting enough input isn’t always easy. While certain conditions are known for their effects on the senses, this is a concern that impacts everyone. A good sensory diet makes for a more pleasant life.

Costumers do not exist in a vacuum. Not only do we see our outfits, we hear fabric move, feel petticoats against our legs and smell what happens to a bodice at the end of a hot day. How our senses react to our goings-on further impacts our enjoyment. We costume because we love it. If something diminishes our experience, we don’t have to lose out or be miserable. Finding a way to balance one’s passion and physical needs makes for a better experience.

For this article, I will concentrate on sound, scent and touch. I’ve discussed aspects of sewing and vision in a previous article, Sewing with Learning Disabilities Part 2. As I’m uncertain of the ways sewing and tasting intersect, I won’t be touching upon it either. There are however other sensory matters I would like to mention before going on.

A Digression on Spoon Theory

Spoon theory was coined in 2003 to explain variations in energy between different people. Literal spoons aren’t used, but stand in as units everyone expends to get through daily life. While some people have an unlimited number, others have finite spoons that must be carefully portioned through the day in order to function. Christine Miserandino’s article explains spoon theory in greater detail.

Costuming is a fun but spoon devouring experience. Time in the fabric store for example can wear down the senses. Rows of colorful fabric can bring joy or visual overload. Standing under fluorescent lights may be no different than being under a strobe. The buzz of fluorescents, the sound of others moving and talking, plus music piped over the loudspeakers can eat half a day’s spoons, and you haven’t even started the outfit.

Attending events is another exercise in spoon management. A venue that’s too hot, cold or crowded may need to be balanced with plenty of rest, or cutting the visit a few hours short. If a costume has complications such as chafing, more spoons may be lost.

Incorporating spoon theory into costuming can lead to a calmer, more enjoyable hobby. If a trip to the fabric store is too arduous, you could set aside days for recuperation, or find other ways to get what you want. There’s adapting clothes to accommodate shifts in temperature or comfort. Events can be chosen with an optimal sensory experience in mind.

The Importance of Stimming

Positive sensory quirks are worth examining. Self-stimulating, or stimming, are calming behaviors achieved through pleasant sense experiences. These can be expressed in many forms, such as humming, fidgeting, chewing gum, and more. When experiencing stress, stimming is a source of relief. Sewing can provide a wealth of stims, or outlets for self-stimulation.

Hand stitching can be a boon to those who hate sitting still. From personal experience, not having something to do leads to finding something, anything, to keep physically occupied. This in turn ends in unpleasantness like nail biting. The search for a petty activity can be mind consuming in itself, detracting form why we’re sitting still to begin with. Projects small enough to carry around, like a collar, may help clear the mind by keeping the hands busy. Repetitive actions such as doing the same stitch over and over can lull a person into a meditative state and bring a measure of calm. (Woman Sewing)

There is an essay on Trystan’s Costume Closet with tips to prevent back, hand and other injuries while sewing. Among these is maintaining a posture that keeps the back, knees hips and feet at right angles. While this may be adequate for some people, others may require extra sensation. Try experimenting to see what’s comfortable. This could mean using one or more cushions, adopting a kneeling position, or rolling a golf ball underfoot while working. If you enjoy the extra stimulation that comes from, for example, sitting on a foot, take care to change positions frequently to avoid permanent harm.

Fabric scraps can be a boon to those who need to stim. They can be converted into fidget toys, or used as is to keep fingers occupied. Material that’s soft, plush or otherwise enjoyable can be kept around for petting, while absorbent cloth may be spritzed with a favorite scent for sniffing. People who like to chew might find material that works with their teeth.

Stims can be directly incorporated into costumes. Those who like the sensation of a hug may do well with corsets or other snug bodices. Panels of nice fabric provide surfaces to rub, while tassels and fringes become fidget toys. Those who enjoy pleasant smells can look to periods which favor sweet bags or pomanders. Handkerchiefs can have multiple applications, such as smelling, chewing, twisting and more. Imagination is the limit.

Sound

In the novel “The Makioka Sisters,” the titular characters dress in kimono for an event. To their embarrassment, one sister’s obi squeaks as she breathes. No matter how many times she changes, her clothing make sounds too undignified for the occasion.

Noise and costuming may not be an obvious combination. When they collide, the result can be difficult to ignore. Specific weaves or garments may give off sounds that sets you on edge, like a hand running down velvet. Depending on the person, sewing machines, irons, scissors or other tools can also hurt.

One way to manage unpleasant noises while sewing is to try and block them. Ear plugs, white noise machines or music played at a strong volume can take care of the worst of the issue. While these approaches may work for some, they aren’t a cure all. Ear plugs reduce rather than suppress outside sound, while amplifying things like your own walking or chewing. White noise machines likewise don’t mask everything. If too much sound is an issue, countering it with loud music may add to the trouble. Experiment with what works best for you.

If you’re is sensitive to noise and looking for a sewing machine, try listening to a few models in action before buying. Hearing the needle move shouldn’t be painful. If possible, ask to hear multiple functions, such as bobbin winding, to avoid unpleasant surprises. If you still have trouble finding a sewing machine that’s compatible with your ears, you may want to consider hand sewing, or alternating hand and machine stitching depending on your spoons.

Sensitivity to fabric sounds may influence the materials used and the type of garments worn. The Makioka sisters realized obis from new brocade were noisy while older, more lived in pieces were silent. During the planning stages of your costume, try playing with the fabric, notions, or anything else you may use in order to note their sounds and adjust accordingly. It may also help to repeat the process as you go through various mockups and begin layering the clothing to ensure you’re comfortable with the sounds.

Olfactory

Fabric can absorb and give off odors. While scents don’t always make people run for the hills, they can dampen the fun of costuming. Wool is a classic example, taking on an animal scent when wet. Smells may also come to the forefront if clothing absorbs scented cosmetics or the body’s own fragrances. Subtler olfactory offenses can come from warm fabric, like freshly ironed cloth, or perfumed laundry detergent. The smells one encounters vary depending on the fiber and garment.

One possible solution comes from undergarments. They’re a removable layer created to absorb sweat, body oils, scented lotions and other things that may be smelly. Changing into a fresh chemise as needed could protect your nose and the outer layers of your costume. Depending on the fabric, weather and other factors, perspiration and such might seep through the garment. Additional barriers such as dress shields may help.

Another way to gauge if fabric is compatible with your nose is to play with swatches. Try wetting the material, ironing it, washing in detergent and any other tests you think are appropriate. If the cloth smells agreeable throughout this process, you’re on the right track. Should the material give off odors you dislike, you can select another fabric or try workarounds to this issue.

If they’re compatible with the costumes you’re dreaming of, think of using machine washable fabrics. Tossing outfits into the wash is a quick way of removing unpleasantness. Ideally, the detergent should be unscented or have a perfume that doesn’t bother you. If nothing else, your inner layers should be machine washable.

For clothing that can’t be laundered, airing may help dissipate unwanted scents. If space permits, spreading the clothes out on a drying rack will get the job done. Those with limited room can accomplish something similar through the clothes in question over a shower rod or other place that allows for air circulation. If you’re not sure if the clothes have aired enough, you may want to take a sniff check.

Tactile

Costumes are worn directly against the body. Not only does skin come into contact with our creations, muscles and other deep tissue can feel what’s going on. If an outfit’s not compatible with our sense of touch, we won’t enjoy it as much. Sewing too involves an intimate tactile relationship.   

There are multiple kinds of touch concerns. One is hypersensitivity, where a light sensation can feel like a paper cut. Hyposensitivity may leave people unaware of a popped blister or worse. Some have both, where the brush of a feather will make them shriek, but are indifferent to a turned ankle. I will try to address as many aspects as I can.

Too Little

With sewing and hyposensitivity, safety is a concern. Many sewers have tales of needle stabs. Diminished sensation where sharp objects are involved may end in blood or possible infection. Being mindful of your workstation and what it has can lower the risk of harm.

Taking your time and staying aware when sewing is a must. Keeping a light foot on the machine pedal and watching the needle should lower the risk of punctured fingers. Pinning stuff so it’s easily removed while running through the machine may lower the chance of scratches.

Hand sewing also requires caution. It is possible to pin oneself to fabric and not feel it. Minding the needle itself is another must. Some are so fine, it’s easy to confuse the head and the point, resulting in pricked fingers.

Hyposensitivity and costumes are not the best of combinations and may lead to chafing, pinching or other unpleasantness. You may not be able to feel something is amiss until it’s too late. Giving your costume a test run before an event should help with finding problem spots. Wearing the right undergarments and proper fitting also helps.

Pins as fasteners deserve a special mention. I’m not sure if I’m the only person who keeps scratching herself on pinned bodices. Sometimes I feel it, sometimes I don’t, but my hands aren’t a pretty sight afterwards and take time to heal. Please be careful and don’t follow my example.

Too Much

Hypersensitive skin can make many activities painful or unpleasant. A needle poke may feel like a trip to the doctor, taut thread like cheese wire and so forth. This can lead to slower project completion or avoiding sewing altogether. What should be fun becomes a bag of mixed feelings.

When making costumes with hypersensitive touch, pickiness is ideal. If possible, try buying fabric in person so you can touch them and see if they work for you. If buying online, see if you can get swatches. You’ll be spending a lot of time handling the fabric, so it’s essential the material is agreeable. Doing this with thread and other notions may also help.

When creating mockups, try including the fasteners you’re thinking of using in the final product. That way, you can tell if they’ll irritate and adjust the design accordingly. This applies to the cut as well. Aesthetically pleasing line placement matters, but if your armpits, shoulders or other parts are feeling uncomfortable, the feeling will magnify hours into an event.

Another perk of mockups is they give you a test run of the type of garments you’ll feel comfortable in. If fabric brushing against your legs hurts as you walk, trousers, hoops or other things that discourage the sensation may help. People who hate constriction may fare better with times and places that favor loose clothing. Now is the time to experiment. Walk around in your mockup, try some dances or light chores, whatever you plan on doing in the final outfit.

Depending on the finish and layers in a garment, seams may feel like endless poking. Sometimes the fix is easy, like wearing a petticoat inside out. For other pieces, it may help to finish the seam so it’s as flat as possible. I recommend reading “Press as You Sew” for tips on how to process the seams to your liking before finishing. As for actual finishing techniques to use, I recommend trying styles like flat felled, pinked or bag lining on various mockups and giving them a test wear to see which is the most comfortable for you.

Sensory issues and how they come across in sewing differ by person. If you would like to know more about making your costumes compatible with your senses, feel free to visit Your Wardrobe Unlock’d Member’s Club on Facebook group for advice and ideas.

Conclusion

Not everyone’s senses work the same way. What may be innocuous to one may be ghastly to another. Sewing and costuming involve a close working relationship with touch, making it crucial to have things compatible with you. Scent and hearing are less apparent, but can still impact your enjoyment of the hobby.

Even if your senses are atypical, you can still enjoy costuming. Be choosy when it comes to materials and designs, and things become less tiring. There are also good things to be had with sensory quirks, like incorporating your favorite stims into your workspace and costumes.

Works Cited

Bass, Trystan. “10 Tips for Sewing and Blogging with Injuries.” Trystan’s Costume Closet, June 28, 2014.

http://www.trystancraft.com/costume/2014/06/28/10-tips-for-sewing-and-blogging-with-injuries-and-how-to-avoid-injuries-in-the-first-place/ (accessed 05-28-2017)

Harrington, Emmalia. “Sewing with Learning Disabilities Part 2.” Your Wardrobe Unlock’d, August 2014 http://www.yourwardrobeunlockd.com/index-of-articles/costumemaking/826-sewing-with-learning-disabilities-part-2 (accessed 05-28-2017)

Miserandino, Christine. “The Spoon Theory.” But You Don’t Look Sick, 2003 (accessed 05-28-2017)

https://butyoudontlooksick.com/articles/written-by-christine/the-spoon-theory/

Tanizaki, Jun’ichrou. “The Makioka Sisters.” Trans. Edward G. Seidensticker. Vintage, 1995.

Vidler, Lisha. “Press as You Sew.” Your Wardrobe Unlock’d, November 2013. http://www.yourwardrobeunlockd.com/index-of-articles/costumemaking/fabricsamaterials/713-press-as-you-sew  (accessed 05-28-2017)

Happy sewing!